I think they would be pretty fragile in that material.
I'd imagine it would snap like the Frosted Detail material Also, I'm put off by this information about the material (https://www.shapeways.com/materials/acrylic-plastic):
"Acrylic plastic is heatproof to 48ºC / 118.4ºF degrees. Higher temperatures may significantly change material properties."
Better to have one done made of laser-cut acrylic sheets?
I'd imagine it would snap like the Frosted Detail material Also, I'm put off by this information about the material (https://www.shapeways.com/materials/acrylic-plastic):
"Acrylic plastic is heatproof to 48ºC / 118.4ºF degrees. Higher temperatures may significantly change material properties."
Better to have one done made of laser-cut acrylic sheets?
I'd imagine it would snap like the Frosted Detail material Also, I'm put off by this information about the material (https://www.shapeways.com/materials/acrylic-plastic):
"Acrylic plastic is heatproof to 48ºC / 118.4ºF degrees. Higher temperatures may significantly change material properties."
Better to have one done made of laser-cut acrylic sheets?
Ouch. I didn't realize the black acrylic was like the white detail acrylic for melting point. Better not leave the miniatures in the car on a hot summer day!
I use laser cut acrylic stands from Reacher. He charges about 80 cents per stand and they work and look great.
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I remember that isoruku (miniatures) had the problem with lengthwise "banana bending" with his longer miniatures like the Super Yamato and Shinano. He had made the hull walls pretty thin to save on plastic cost. I asked hime to thicken the walls a bit because of that and because there wasn't enough depth to drill out the portholes even a little without poking completely through the wall. But he also added a lengthwise wall under the model going from bow to stern at the same depth as the hull on his long models. I think that probably did the most to stop the bending.
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