Here's a few pics of HMS Furious. Resin ship from XPForge/Ghukek and a decal from Flight Deck.
I'm pretty happy with this except I struggled to match the deck color on the decal for the lower deck. Also, for some reason, this decal had some warping as the top coat of matte dried. If you look closely at the last picture, you can see where this occurred. Bummer, but still happy with this.
I think it looks great. Yeah, the decal deforming is a bit odd. Was it not completely dry when you painted over it?
After the warping I had on Ark Royal, I've let everything dry longer. The gloss coat dried for 3 days before I put the decal on. The decal/Micro Set dried for about 28 hours before I put the matte coat on. I'm not sure why it happens. It's only happened on a couple. Very weird.
I think it looks great. Yeah, the decal deforming is a bit odd. Was it not completely dry when you painted over it?
After the warping I had on Ark Royal, I've let everything dry longer. The gloss coat dried for 3 days before I put the decal on. The decal/Micro Set dried for about 28 hours before I put the matte coat on. I'm not sure why it happens. It's only happened on a couple. Very weird.
You might try an acrylic gloss coat over the decal before the final matte finish.
After the warping I had on Ark Royal, I've let everything dry longer. The gloss coat dried for 3 days before I put the decal on. The decal/Micro Set dried for about 28 hours before I put the matte coat on. I'm not sure why it happens. It's only happened on a couple. Very weird.
You might try an acrylic gloss coat over the decal before the final matte finish.
Maybe, but I've always heard that a gloss coat over the decal can lead to silvering. I've got some junk models sitting around, though, so it's worth an experiment! Thanks!
In the scale modeling world it is generally recommended to put on a gloss coat before and after applying decals to prevent silvering. Some argue it isn't necessary, but I think it is far better than not. Then apply the matte coat last. This is what I do with my minis and models.
The IJN Carrier Liberation Force - "Because We Care" Join the IJNCVLF. Service Guarantees Citizenship!
In the scale modeling world it is generally recommended to put on a gloss coat before and after applying decals to prevent silvering. Some argue it isn't necessary, but I think it is far better than not. Then apply the matte coat last. This is what I do with my minis and models.
Before painting up some tanks and the flight deck decals, I have hardly ever used decals. Sure, some small ones on some WaS aircraft and a flag or two on some KGM and IJN capital ships, but I'd say I'm kind of a novice with decals. Generally, though, I can follow directions and when I read the flight deck decals directions HERE, the final image shows gloss on the deck, then the decal and then matte. I admit I usually cheat after a few days of putting on that matte coat and then add a gloss or satin coat and then a final matte coat because I know we're going to rest some aircraft on top of a carrier in play.
Following Dan's instructions, though, I haven't had trouble with silvering, so I'm happy. Several times with some tanks, I've put gloss on over the decals and the decal shriveled up. I don't know what the best solution is, but I sure appreciate the conversation and the guidance!
I'm currently trying to decide what ship(s) I'm going to work on next. I have a slew of Shapeways left to paint and even a bunch of XPForge stuff I haven't even started. However, I have decals waiting to get slapped on some flattops, so, maybe, the carriers will continue to get churned out.
Post by Flight Deck Decals on Sept 1, 2022 1:50:58 GMT
You are good to go on using gloss coat over decals. What causes silvering is applying decals on flat / mat or applying gloss over flat / mat. Flat / mat always has to be the very last coat.
Cracking and or shriveling of paint coats (and sometimes decals) is usually caused by one three things: 1. Not allowing the paint / clear coat / decal (decal set solution too) to completely cure. 2. Chemical reaction between products. Rustoleum products are a big offender here. I have had RO varnish completely shrivel & bubble acrylic paint & stains on wood, concrete & plastics. I once grabbed the wrong can of clear to seal a full sheet of freshly printed resin decals. It shrank the entire 8"x14" carrier sheet off of the backer paper in less that 30 seconds. 3. Product cure - shrink rate. What is the impact of multiple cure rates? Think about the different layers on your model:
- Primer coat (hopefully thin) - Color coat (possibly multiple colors in all different areas) - Shade / wash coat(s) - At least 1x gloss coat - 1x final flat coat - And a decal sandwiched somewhere in-between...
Potentially all of these layers are shrinking at different rates and pulling different directions.
Now we add in new formulas like "Fast Drying" "2x Double the Coverage" products like Krylon & Valspar. One of the hardest model surfaces to paint is an RC car that has a flexible plastic shell. My advice is the same as theirs. "Use a product made specifically for the hobby". For spray cans I mostly use Tamiya. For airbrush I use only Vallejo. I stopped using other "non hobby" products years ago when a coat of Krylon ruined a Nimitz model that I had many hrs vested in.
Just one guys opinions and we all know what they say about those;-)
You are good to go on using gloss coat over decals. What causes silvering is applying decals on flat / mat or applying gloss over flat / mat. Flat / mat always has to be the very last coat.
Cracking and or shriveling of paint coats (and sometimes decals) is usually caused by one three things: 1. Not allowing the paint / clear coat / decal (decal set solution too) to completely cure. 2. Chemical reaction between products. Rustoleum products are a big offender here. I have had RO varnish completely shrivel & bubble acrylic paint & stains on wood, concrete & plastics. I once grabbed the wrong can of clear to seal a full sheet of freshly printed resin decals. It shrank the entire 8"x14" carrier sheet off of the backer paper in less that 30 seconds. 3. Product cure - shrink rate. What is the impact of multiple cure rates? Think about the different layers on your model:
- Primer coat (hopefully thin) - Color coat (possibly multiple colors in all different areas) - Shade / wash coat(s) - At least 1x gloss coat - 1x final flat coat - And a decal sandwiched somewhere in-between...
Potentially all of these layers are shrinking at different rates and pulling different directions.
Now we add in new formulas like "Fast Drying" "2x Double the Coverage" products like Krylon & Valspar. One of the hardest model surfaces to paint is an RC car that has a flexible plastic shell. My advice is the same as theirs. "Use a product made specifically for the hobby". For spray cans I mostly use Tamiya. For airbrush I use only Vallejo. I stopped using other "non hobby" products years ago when a coat of Krylon ruined a Nimitz model that I had many hrs vested in.
Just one guys opinions and we all know what they say about those;-)
Thanks for your input! I learn something new here all the time!