After watching the videos, I think I'll be avoiding the game. First, I'm not hip on metal guns and towers. The metal used just seems like it will get bent...a lot. Second, the firing being two-step where first you have to hit and then you have to roll to penetrate armor seems like it will slow things down a bit too much. Realistic? Probably, but the A&A minis games are meant to be quick and enjoyable and I'm not sure how excited I'll be to slow things down...
That is there typical game mechanic for games like this. Battletech, etc. I doubt we will find a tabletop naval war game that is much simpler or quicker to play than WaS.
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It looks like Warlord Games is going to publish a complete book of game rules for Victory at Sea that includes stats for all the ships. At least that is what I interpret it to mean. I have preordered a copy. Hopefully I will be able to play the game now with my WotC and Shapeways minis!
What's the difference between "Resin" and "Warlord Resin"?
Warlord uses normal resin (old school) that incorporates a hardener agent on several of their lines. They are usually form casts from a master. Print 3D resins utilize a UV light to harden the resin in layers. WG maybe using both but the Cruel Seas 1-200 Fairmiles I received from the were cast resin with old school mixed hardner.
Nice post, I saw some of these kits in my local game store, was interested in the USS Idaho.
Off topic question: does anyone know of other image hosting sites? I've used Photobucket for years but they are clamping down on free users quite harshly. Need another site to upload my pictures.
Nice post, I saw some of these kits in my local game store, was interested in the USS Idaho.
Off topic question: does anyone know of other image hosting sites? I've used Photobucket for years but they are clamping down on free users quite harshly. Need another site to upload my pictures.
Second, the firing being two-step where first you have to hit and then you have to roll to penetrate armor seems like it will slow things down a bit too much.
It's more than that.
You roll your attack dice and then you roll damage die for every die that hits. For every 6 you roll you must or a D6 and every 4+ confirms a critical hit. You then roll a D10 for every confirmed critical if you roll 10's you then roll a D6 for every 10 that you rolled.
For example lets use the Yamato
Roll AD - 9D6 = 60% hit Roll DD - 6D6 = 1 is a 6 Roll to confirm - 1D6 If confirmed roll 1D10 If a 10 is rolled then roll aD6
Not too much but imagine rolling this multiple times a turn which I have done. Now lets imagine playing an outlier such as the Oii.
The Oii has 5 quadruple LL mounts per side. Thats 20 LL tubes both port and starboard. (Just an example results are average % and may vary.)
Roll AD - 20D6 = 10 hits Roll DD - 30D6 = LL cause critical on 5's and 6's. Roll to confirm - 10D6 = 5 confirmed Roll 5D10 and maybe 1D6
At least this will give your opponent a chance to make a cup of coffee.
