After watching the videos, I think I'll be avoiding the game. First, I'm not hip on metal guns and towers. The metal used just seems like it will get bent...a lot. Second, the firing being two-step where first you have to hit and then you have to roll to penetrate armor seems like it will slow things down a bit too much. Realistic? Probably, but the A&A minis games are meant to be quick and enjoyable and I'm not sure how excited I'll be to slow things down...
That is there typical game mechanic for games like this. Battletech, etc. I doubt we will find a tabletop naval war game that is much simpler or quicker to play than WaS.
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It looks like Warlord Games is going to publish a complete book of game rules for Victory at Sea that includes stats for all the ships. At least that is what I interpret it to mean. I have preordered a copy. Hopefully I will be able to play the game now with my WotC and Shapeways minis!
What's the difference between "Resin" and "Warlord Resin"?
Warlord uses normal resin (old school) that incorporates a hardener agent on several of their lines. They are usually form casts from a master. Print 3D resins utilize a UV light to harden the resin in layers. WG maybe using both but the Cruel Seas 1-200 Fairmiles I received from the were cast resin with old school mixed hardner.
Nice post, I saw some of these kits in my local game store, was interested in the USS Idaho.
Off topic question: does anyone know of other image hosting sites? I've used Photobucket for years but they are clamping down on free users quite harshly. Need another site to upload my pictures.
Nice post, I saw some of these kits in my local game store, was interested in the USS Idaho.
Off topic question: does anyone know of other image hosting sites? I've used Photobucket for years but they are clamping down on free users quite harshly. Need another site to upload my pictures.
Second, the firing being two-step where first you have to hit and then you have to roll to penetrate armor seems like it will slow things down a bit too much.
It's more than that.
You roll your attack dice and then you roll damage die for every die that hits. For every 6 you roll you must or a D6 and every 4+ confirms a critical hit. You then roll a D10 for every confirmed critical if you roll 10's you then roll a D6 for every 10 that you rolled.
For example lets use the Yamato
Roll AD - 9D6 = 60% hit Roll DD - 6D6 = 1 is a 6 Roll to confirm - 1D6 If confirmed roll 1D10 If a 10 is rolled then roll aD6
Not too much but imagine rolling this multiple times a turn which I have done. Now lets imagine playing an outlier such as the Oii.
The Oii has 5 quadruple LL mounts per side. Thats 20 LL tubes both port and starboard. (Just an example results are average % and may vary.)
Roll AD - 20D6 = 10 hits Roll DD - 30D6 = LL cause critical on 5's and 6's. Roll to confirm - 10D6 = 5 confirmed Roll 5D10 and maybe 1D6
At least this will give your opponent a chance to make a cup of coffee.
My shop wrote warlord games that their customers where unhappy with the quality and they answered that the opend starter they got was a fast production for the shop and of less quality and that the "normal" packs were better.
Sounds strange.
so we checked the german starter.
Quality improved to the starter, but still bad. they are still bent.
so we think of just buying the books and try it but use our existing ships.
It seems to be hard to make ship miniatures from just about any material or process without having them bend. The Shapeways WSF is so far the only 3D printing material that I have never had a problem with bent ships. And that is literally thousands of minis. That is one of several reasons I have stayed with WSF. I keep trying new materials as the come out but so far no joy. Brittle and/or very prone to bend with no good way to straighten them out. I don't know why that is a problem with 3D printed materials except the WSF. With injection plastic I think it is because they take it out of the mold too quickly before it completely cools.
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It seems to be hard to make ship miniatures from just about any material or process without having them bend. The Shapeways WSF is so far the only 3D printing material that I have never had a problem with bent ships. And that is literally thousands of minis. That is one of several reasons I have stayed with WSF. I keep trying new materials as the come out but so far no joy. Brittle and/or very prone to bend with no good way to straighten them out. I don't know why that is a problem with 3D printed materials except the WSF. With injection plastic I think it is because they take it out of the mold too quickly before it completely cools.
Interesting. I have seen your comments on favoring WSF before. For 1/1800 this is starting to seem persuasive to me.
As for the new Victory at Sea 1/1800 miniatures, the following "unboxing" article, which includes feedback responses from Warlords, seems to have narrowed the problem down in that context to a Warlords failed special brew brown resin which warps frequently and has much lower detail, vs a more traditional grey resin they use on a subset of their models which apparently works without warping and has much finer and really nice detail.
I am guessing as usual that cost is an issue in this. It never seems to cross miniatures makers' minds that if they use cost considerations to make an item that people hate and will not buy, it is of course not ultimately a good costings decision after all. Poor quality decisions can also lead to further design failures. In this context I am guessing that their low detail failed resin experiment, due to warping issues in the design phase, may have led them to the ridiculously overly thick bases that no one likes, and therefore is leading to significantly reduced demand. One wonders what the take up of the game would have been like if they had used the better grey resin throughout and not used any bases on the miniatures at all, leaving people to add bases if they wanted. Omitting the bases would have also reduced the amount of resin used significantly, covering the cost of better and perhaps more expensive resin, while even lowering the sales price point and/or increasing profit.
Because if that was WSF, I would say that this is quite good detail given it is such a small ship. And knowing how durable WSF is, this looks like a winner to me for tabletop gaming. Nice 3d model by squint181 and paint job by you I might add!
Yes, that is WSF, but those are not the best photos I have ever taken. You can see a lot more of them in my gallery. A few are the smooth detail plastic, but most are WSF. There is a lot of variation in print quality with all of the materials from Shapeways. Some are not very rough, others are. Same with the "smooth" detail plastics which can have some severe rippled sides where the layers are showing.
The very first one is the French battleship Alsace and it is in the smooth detail plastic. It looks nice, but that miniature is now missing two main gun barrels that snapped off at some point. I don't even know when it happened.
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Post by admiralwoodside on Dec 31, 2021 8:06:59 GMT
With regards to my previous remarks above, which included a reference link, on the two types of resin being used by Warlord for their Victory at Sea 1/1800 miniatures. Has anybody tried to remove the huge bases from these miniatures? If one or both of their resin types is a soft resin it might be possible. My experience with cutting hard resin Flames of War tank miniatures in the 1/100 scale was not pleasant at all, however. It was really hard resin, difficult to hold onto, and took forever to saw with my fine tooth hobby saw. Worse yet, being resin the resin dust was foul smelling and potentially dangerous, and the cutting had to be done outdoors with the wind blowing away from me. Has anybody tried cutting the bases off these VaS ships yet? Was there a difference between the Warlord-brown and traditional grey (possibly harder) resin when you did? Really curious.